TYREDECK KNOWLEDGE BASE
Know your tyres.
Drive with confidence.
Clear, sourced guidance for choosing, checking and maintaining tyres in the UK.
SAFETY
Safety guides
Aquaplaning: what it is and what to do
Aquaplaning happens when a tyre cannot clear water quickly enough and loses effective contact with the road. Reduce speed before standing water and leave a larger gap; tread, pressure and speed all influence risk.
Read guide →02Cracked tyre sidewalls: when to worry
Fine surface ageing deserves inspection; deep cracks, exposed material or bulges require urgent professional attention. Cracking can result from age, UV exposure, long periods parked, chemical contamination or running underinflated.
Read guide →03How old is too old for a tyre?
Age is one part of condition: storage, load, pressure, heat and damage all matter. Read the four-digit date code: the first two digits are the production week and the last two are the year.
Read guide →04How to check a spare tyre
A spare is useful only if it is inflated, serviceable and accompanied by the correct tools. Check its pressure against the vehicle handbook; space-saver spares often require a higher pressure than road tyres.
Read guide →05How to check tyre pressure correctly
Use the vehicle manufacturer’s pressure, measured when the tyres are cold. Find the recommended values in the handbook, fuel flap or driver-door area. Do not use the maximum pressure moulded on the tyre sidewall.
Read guide →06How to check tyre tread depth
Check several points across every tyre, not just the easiest outer edge. Turn the steering to expose the front tread where safe, then use a proper tread-depth gauge in the main grooves.
Read guide →07Tyre pressure with passengers and luggage
Many vehicles specify different pressures when heavily loaded or travelling at sustained speed. Use the laden values shown in the handbook, fuel flap or door aperture—not a guessed increase.
Read guide →08UK tyre tread-depth law explained
The minimum for most cars is 1.6mm, but legality is only the final threshold—not a performance target. The requirement applies across the central three-quarters of the tyre breadth and around the entire circumference.
Read guide →CHOOSING
Choosing guides
Are electric-car tyres different?
EVs can place extra demands on tyres through vehicle weight, instant torque, efficiency goals and low cabin noise. The correct load index and vehicle-approved specification matter more than an “EV” marketing label alone.
Read guide →02Budget vs premium tyres
Price matters, but compare wet grip, intended use, mileage, noise and replacement risk—not the brand tier alone. A premium tyre may offer stronger performance or longevity, but performance varies by model and size.
Read guide →03Can you mix tyre brands?
Matching tyres across an axle is the safest straightforward approach because tread, construction and behaviour can differ. At minimum, maintain the correct size, construction, load and speed specification.
Read guide →04Directional and asymmetric tyres explained
Directional tyres have a rotation direction; asymmetric tyres have designated inside and outside faces. A directional tyre normally carries a rotation arrow that must point forward when the car moves.
Read guide →05How to read a tyre size
In 205/55 R16 91V, 205 is width, 55 is profile, 16 is rim diameter, 91 is load index and V is speed rating. Match the complete approved specification, not only the three large size figures.
Read guide →06Run-flat vs standard tyres
Run-flat tyres can provide limited mobility after pressure loss, but ride, cost, repairability and vehicle compatibility differ. The vehicle normally needs a functioning pressure-monitoring system because pressure loss may be less obvious.
Read guide →07Should new tyres go on the front or rear?
Many tyre and vehicle specialists recommend fitting the better-gripping pair to the rear to reduce sudden oversteer, but the correct decision depends on the vehicle and manufacturer guidance. Front-wheel drive does not automatically mean the newest tyres belong on the front.
Read guide →08Summer vs all-season tyres in the UK
Summer tyres prioritise warmer-condition performance; all-season tyres trade some specialisation for broader year-round ability. Climate, hills, rural travel, annual mileage and the ability to store a second set should guide the decision.
Read guide →09Tyre load index and speed rating
These codes describe tested load capacity and speed capability; they are not optional decoration. The load index is a code that maps to a maximum load per tyre.
Read guide →10Understanding UK tyre labels
Tyre labels help compare fuel efficiency, wet grip and external rolling noise. Wet-grip classes indicate comparative braking performance under defined test conditions.
Read guide →11When should you rotate your tyres?
Rotation may even out wear on suitable vehicles, but staggered sizes, directional patterns and manufacturer rules can prevent it. Follow the vehicle handbook’s interval and rotation pattern rather than using a universal mileage rule.
Read guide →COSTS
Costs guides
Average tyre prices by size
Tyre size, brand, season, load rating and specialist construction all influence price. Compare like-for-like specifications and check whether delivery, fitting, valves, balancing and disposal are included.
Read guide →02Buying part-worn tyres: what to know
A lower purchase price can hide reduced remaining life, unknown history or internal damage. A legal part-worn tyre still needs the required markings and must be safe, correctly specified and free from dangerous defects.
Read guide →03How much does mobile tyre fitting cost?
The total combines tyre price, fitting and potentially a mobile call-out or timed-slot charge. Coverage, urgency, location, tyre size and vehicle type can alter the price.
Read guide →04How to prepare your tyres for an MOT
Check tread, pressure, visible damage and TPMS warnings before the test. Inspect the full visible circumference and inner edges where possible.
Read guide →PROBLEMS
Problems guides
Can my puncture be repaired?
A repair may be possible for limited damage in the central tread area, but only after the tyre is removed and inspected internally. Sidewall and shoulder damage is normally not repairable.
Read guide →02Driving with a slow puncture
Repeated pressure loss is a fault to diagnose, not something to manage indefinitely by topping up. Possible causes include a nail, leaking valve, damaged wheel rim, bead corrosion or previous repair failure.
Read guide →03TPMS warning light explained
Treat the warning as a prompt to check every tyre with a pressure gauge. A steady warning often indicates one or more low tyres; a flashing sequence may indicate a system or sensor fault.
Read guide →04Uneven tyre wear patterns explained
Where a tyre wears often points towards pressure, alignment or suspension issues. Wear on both shoulders often suggests prolonged underinflation; centre wear can be associated with overinflation.
Read guide →05What to do after hitting a pothole
A hard pothole strike can damage the tyre, wheel, alignment or suspension even when the car still drives. Stop somewhere safe and inspect both sidewalls, the tread and wheel for a bulge, cut, crack or distortion.
Read guide →06Wheel alignment vs wheel balancing
Alignment changes wheel angles; balancing corrects uneven rotating mass. Pulling, an off-centre steering wheel and edge wear often justify an alignment check.
Read guide →07Why are my tyres noisy?
Road surface and tyre design affect noise, but a new hum, drone or thump can also signal wear or damage. A rhythmic thump can be associated with a flat spot, deformation or lodged object.
Read guide →